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Rheinhessen, Pfalz & Mittelrhein: A Game of Patience
Germany, featured
, Sep 2025
Two thousand twenty-four was a challenging year for the winemakers in Rheinhessen, Pfalz and Mittelrhein. Frost, rain, and a hot, dry summer required immense patience. In the end, lovers of classic, cool, svelte but highly expressive Rieslings are in for a treat in 2024.
Jura: Nature Hits Hard, but the Wines Fight Back
France, featured
, Sep 2025
The 2024 vintage in Jura was among the most difficult in recent history, with frost, downy mildew and resulting low yields putting immense pressure on growers. On a more positive note, the 2023s offer ample freshness and accessibility, while the current-release 2017 and 2018 oxidative wines showcase the region’s stylistic range. A closer look at Vin Jaune production reveals how geology, cellar conditions and yeast combine to shape this singular wine style.
Rheingau and Nahe 2024: Rain, Frost and Unexpected Brilliance
Germany, featured
, Sep 2025
While the Rheingau escaped the terrible frost events that devastated many Nahe vineyards in April 2024, late summer rains spelled lower sugar levels. Slow ripening and sufficient moisture made for aromatic, if slender, wines. In the Nahe, yields were severely curtailed by spring frosts, but the top estates made some of their most crystalline wines ever.
A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022
France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Sep 2025
This year, Château Lafleur celebrates four decades of ownership by the Guinaudeau family. To mark the occasion, a weekend in Austria witnessed a unique vertical of every vintage from 1985 to 2022, all poured from magnum. How did this Pomerol-turned-Vin de France perform?
Santa Barbara: Out of Many, One
featured, United States: California
, Aug 2025
The refrain that kept running through my head over the course of two weeks of extensive tasting in and around Santa Barbara County was, “Is there anywhere else in the world that can do this many things this well?” The tapestry that makes up the Santa Barbara wine landscape is easily one of the most dynamic in the United States, if not the world. Through the lens of a long, auspicious growing season in 2023, Santa Barbara yielded an embarrassment of riches.
Andean Character: Uco Valley Reds
featured, Argentina
, Aug 2025
Wines from the high-elevation areas of the Uco Valley express a primary profile, accented by the enticingly distinctive character of Andean herbs. This report features over 500 red wines from the Uco Valley, journeying from Gualtallary to San Pablo and beyond, with a focus on two subregions that deliver markedly different wines despite their proximity to each other.
Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report
France: Burgundy, featured
, Aug 2025
The winemakers featured in this interim Burgundy report form a vivid microcosm of today’s Côte d’Or, from icons to experimenters to rising talents. All produce compelling wines for different kinds of Burgundy drinkers, but one young winemaker in particular made a big impression.
The Mighty Ducks: 2023 Loire Valley Reds
France: Loire, featured
, Aug 2025
If there was ever a vintage where red wines from the Loire Valley were the championship underdog team, 2023 was it. Growers had every reason to throw their secateurs down and quit, but they kept their heads down and doggedly fought on. Ultimately, the perfect season isn’t always necessary to achieve good results. The 2023 vintage exemplifies that.
Cellar Favorite: 1924, 1929 & 1955 Meyney
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives
, Aug 2025
Last primeur, which already seems like ages ago, Château Meyney organised a fascinating lunch recreating a historic dinner served in 1928. Three vintages of Meyney older than any I had encountered previously were poured blind.
Tail Fin Delights: Mâconnais 2023/2024
France: Burgundy, featured
, Aug 2025
The Mâconnais is a cradle of excellent, affordable Chardonnay in one of France’s most beautiful regions, with treasures that extend beyond just Pouilly-Fuissé. Surrounding the geologic "Cadillac tail fins" lies a trove of compelling wines waiting to be discovered.