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The Diverse Villages of Rioja: A New Trend Emerges
featured, Spain
, May 2025
Rioja is changing. One of the most important factors in that change is the increased prominence of small and mid-sized producers and their interpretations of Rioja as village, vineyard or parcel wines. These wines stand in stark contrast to the region’s historically blended wines, and yet they may also represent the most promising future for Spain’s most famous winegrowing region.
Emilia-Romagna: Chomping at the Bit
Italy: Center & South, featured
, May 2025
Emilia-Romagna is transforming before our eyes. Winemakers are redefining the boundaries of Sangiovese, offering surprising depth and a newfound purity, while categories like Lambrusco have started down a more artisanal path. The only thing holding the region back is Mother Nature.
Cellar Favorite: 2004 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montrachet Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, May 2025
The 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is an elusive white Burgundy that amounts to one barrel. A friend generously offered this bottle of 2004 Montrachet at a casual dinner in Beaune during Hospices weekend last November.
Vinous Table: Casa Julián, Tolosa, Spain
Vinous Table, Spain
, May 2025
The Basque region is a foodie’s paradise, a cradle for some of the finest fish, meat and dairy in the world. Casa Julián is a bona fide institution, and will certainly be one of my top meals of 2025.
Argentina: Exploring the Outer Reaches
Argentina, featured
, May 2025
In a country as vast as Argentina, vines grow in the most unexpected places. This report explores some of the lesser-known regions where wine is made, along with a look at classic areas such as the southern and northern valleys. These 250 wines tell the story of a different landscape—and a different people.
Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019
France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, featured, France: Bordeaux
, May 2025
Clos Fourtet is one of the most picturesque and ideally located châteaux in Saint-Émilion, blessed with some of the finest terroir on the limestone plateau. Under Mathieu Cuvelier, Clos Fourtet has realised its potential and is now regarded amongst the appellation’s best wines. The heart of this piece is an interview with Cuvelier following a vertical tasting of recent vintages, detailing specifics of the vineyard and winemaking approaches.
Cellar Favorite: 2022 António Madeira Branco Vinhas Velhas
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Portugal
, May 2025
On a recent return to Solar dos Presuntos, Lisbon’s go-to restaurant for any wine-lover, I ordered Madeira’s 2022 Branco Vinhas Velhas. Our sommelier grinned, knowing the treat in store. I was blown away.
Vinous Table: Drouant, Paris, France
Vinous Table, France
, May 2025
Drouant offers a menu of traditional brasserie fare, presented in a style that is upscale but not at all fussy. The wine selection is to die for.
Abruzzo Weathers the Storm: Surviving the 2023 and 2024 Vintages
Italy: Center & South, featured
, May 2025
Being a winemaker in Abruzzo these days is a challenge. While the area undergoes massive changes to reform its DOC, reorganize its subregions, keep bottling of Montepulciano within the region and work out a system to add place names to its labels, Abruzzo has also endured two of the most difficult vintages imaginable. Somehow, the best winemakers persevere and continue to keep spirits high.
Piedmont Odds and Ends
featured, Italy: Piedmont, Piedmont
, May 2025
This small update covers a selection of wines that have come across my desk in between major reports. Many of the wines are from Roero, a small appellation that lies across the Tanaro River from Barbaresco. Arneis and Nebbiolo can be especially fine here.