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Cellar Favorite: 1952 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
France: Burgundy, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, featured
, Jun 2025
1952 was a significant vintage: it marked the return of the Romanée-Conti cuvée after the monopole’s ungrafted vines were pulled out following the 1945 harvest. It was a complete privilege to drink this extraordinarily rare piece of history.
Vinous Table: Marea, New York, USA
Vinous Table
, Jun 2025
It’s hard to get to the top, but it’s even harder to stay there. Sixteen years after it opened in 2009, Marea remains one of New York City’s most vital food and wine destinations. Judging by packed rooms on several recent visits, that’s a view shared by many. Food, wine and service are as exceptional as they have ever been, something that was evident on the three recent dinners that inform this article.
Paso Robles 2022 and 2023: Polar Opposites
United States: California, featured
, Jun 2025
Paso Robles is carving out its place as a premier wine region, proving its adaptability in the face of recent vintages. While the 2022 growing season presented unique challenges that are reflected in the wines, the exceptionally promising 2023s highlight Paso’s flexibility and diversity.
Duero: From Ribera to Toro via Rueda (And a Few Other Detours)
featured, Spain
, Jun 2025
The wines of the Duero region—a diverse area shaped by a harsh climate—have earned a reputation as some of Spain’s finest. Journeying through the 600-plus wines reviewed in this report, I tour the region and share my interpretation of Ribera del Duero, the beating heart of Castilla y León.
Cellar Favorite: 2000 Noël Verset Cornas
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Rhône & Beaujolais
, Jun 2025
A recent bottle of the 2000 Cornas was a pertinent reminder of how Noël Verset’s wines can bring such joy.
Maule: The Magic of Old Vines and a Stylistic Reinvention in Chile
featured, Chile
, Jun 2025
Chile is renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo, but many other grapes and terroirs broaden the country’s stylistic range. Among them, the southern region of Maule presents a unique mosaic of vineyards. In this report, I review nearly 700 wines from across the country with a focus on Maule, highlighting new discoveries and revisiting key trends.
One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017
France: Burgundy, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Jun 2025
This was an invaluable overview of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Richebourg—an opportunity to really examine a single cuvée, to observe how it interacts with the heterogeneity of growing seasons that leads to differing results in the bottle. It was also a timely reminder that despite this domaine’s lofty reputation, no bottle is beyond criticism.
A Century of...Fives
France: Bordeaux, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured, featured
, Jun 2025
My annual "Century of..." article revisits vintages on their decennial anniversaries. This year, we dive into Fives.
Cellar Favorite: 1990 Hennebelle
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux, featured
, Jun 2025
The 1990 Hennebelle is a pertinent reminder of the glories of Bordeaux, how a modest quarter-century-old Haut-Médoc could deliver such pleasure.
Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States
featured, Vinous Table
, Jun 2025
Located just a few blocks from Capitol Hill, L’Ardente offers unpretentious, straight-down-the-line Italian fare that has earned a reputation for quality. The atmosphere is lively and the sommelier team is impressive.