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2023 Bordeaux: Signed, Sealed, Delivered
featured, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2026
Bordeaux’s bottled 2023s enter the world during an especially volatile time. I say “enter” because over the last decade or so, the market for Bordeaux wines has changed radically. En primeur is relevant only for a few dozen wines that might appreciate significantly from the time they are first offered from barrel. That applies to fewer and fewer wines with each passing vintage. For all other properties, which means the overwhelming majority, the real market is the market for bottled, finished wines.
2023 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Through the Dark
France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2026
The annual tasting of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s new releases provided a terrific opportunity to taste the domaine’s complete range and check in on a few older wines as well. Co-Managers Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal presented the vintage and wines, continuing a tradition that goes back several decades.
Northern Mendoza: The Old and New Terroirs of Luján de Cuyo
featured, Argentina
, Mar 2026
Luján de Cuyo boasts an important concentration of vineyards just a short drive from central Mendoza, the capital city of the eponymous Argentine province. The region has absorbed countless new movements throughout its 150-year history and is now implementing a new zoning process that exalts the subtle variations of the sites and styles on offer.
Cellar Favorite: 2023 Yquem & Y de Yquem
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
, Mar 2026
The defining feature of the newly released 2023 Yquem is its elegance.
Vinous Table: La Table du Square, Beaune, France
France: Burgundy, Vinous Table
, Mar 2026
It is easy to see why La Table du Square is one of Beaune’s most popular places to dine. There is always a lively atmosphere, and the milk-fed lamb has become one of the area’s must-eat dishes.
Burgundy 2024: The State of Play
France: Burgundy, featured
, Mar 2026
There is much handwringing about the escalation of Burgundy prices. In this opinion piece, I disentangle the interrelated factors that have upheld that gravity-defying escalation, its consequences and how it all might play out.
Curse of the Fours: Bouchard Père 1861-2014
France: Burgundy, featured, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Mar 2026
The word for “four” might be unlucky in Japan, but it certainly was not unlucky with regard to a stunning tasting of wines from Bouchard Père’s cellar back to the 19th century. If that’s not enough, a second Bouchard Père dinner held without a numerical theme was just as enthralling. Together, they form an unrepeatable vinous journey through time.
Cellar Favorite: Kopke 80-Year-Old Tawny Port
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Portugal, Fortified Wines & Spirits
, Mar 2026
There has been a consumer trend towards longer-aged tawnies over the last few years. I find that these wines can be superior to the more renowned vintage Ports, often a little mellower and less high-toned. They are the fortified equivalent of a warm fire on a dismal winter day.
Remembering Daniel Cathiard
Vinous Remembers, France: Bordeaux
, Feb 2026
I was deeply saddened to learn of Daniel Cathiard’s recent passing. With his wife and life partner Florence, Cathiard transformed Smith Haut Lafitte from a sleepy, run-down estate into one of Bordeaux’s most respected châteaux.
Rocca di Montegrossi: Act Two
featured, Verticals & Retrospectives, Italy: Tuscany
, Feb 2026
This recent vertical was a terrific opportunity to revisit a number of older wines, essentially picking up where my 2018 article, “Rocca di Montegrossi: Chianti Classico Vigneto San Marcellino 1995–2013,” left off. From his first vintage in 1995, Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi has crafted powerful yet elegant wines that capture the truest essence of this very special part of Chianti Classico.