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Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023
featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured
, Apr 2025
Château Giscours is a storied Margaux estate that has, in some ways, been “rebuilt” over the last three decades under Estate Director Alexander van Beek. This article tells the tale and examines the terroir and techniques, signposted by a vertical tasting of the wines from the thirties to the present day.
Cellar Favorite: 1948 La Tour Blanche
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2025
Some bottles are more poignant than others, inextricable from the occasion, the place and above all, the person associated with the wine.
Strutting Peacocks: Raymond-Lafon 1979-2021
featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured
, Mar 2025
This vertical tasting focused on recent vintages, with several older bottles dating back to the 1979 vintage. Raymond-Lafon can produce exemplary Sauternes that equal the elite.
The Murakami Wine: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1993-2017
featured, Hungary, Verticals & Retrospectives
, Mar 2025
If Haruki Murakami’s books featured wine instead of whiskey, the protagonist would drink Tokaji Essencia then suffer an existential crisis, pondering whether it is “wine” at all. Maybe this remarkable vertical tasting of every vintage of Essencia ever produced by Royal Tokaji helps answer that question...
Cellar Favorite: 2019 Niepoort Charme Tinto Douro
Portugal, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2025
I have long been an admirer and drinker of Dirk Niepoort’s wines, both fortified and unfortified. A 2019 Charme Tinto Douro was drinking beautifully when I cracked open a bottle recently.
Vinous Table: Osip, Bruton, UK
Vinous Table
, Mar 2025
Osip will become one of the UK’s most sought-after tables. With its sense of innovation and outside-the-box thinking, this was one of the most impressive meals I’ve had in the last couple of years.
Cellar Favorite: 2022 Yquem
France: Bordeaux, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
, Mar 2025
Head Winemaker Lorenzo Pasquini flew to the UK to present the latest vintage of Château Yquem. Meeting in central London, Italian-born Pasquini gave me the background on the 2022.
Vinous Table: Briar, Bruton, UK
Vinous Table
, Mar 2025
Occasionally, you meet a young, bushy-tailed chef and you intuitively know that you’re face-to-face with a future star, a culinary talent in the opening chapters of their career. Sam Lomas is a name to keep your eye on.
Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time
featured, France: Bordeaux featured Verticals and Retrospectives, France: Bordeaux Verticals and Retrospectives featured
, Mar 2025
This article rounds up a treasure trove of claret stretching back over a century, including bona fide legends. But are consumers losing an appreciation for Bordeaux that has been shaped by time?
Obituary: Bill Blatch 1948-2025
featured, Vinous Remembers
, Mar 2025
Bill Blatch was a mentor, an entrepreneur, a sage, a purveyor of terrible jokes, a pillar of Bordeaux and the Saint of Sauternes. Above all, he was a mate.