Cellar Favorite: 2023 Yquem & Y de Yquem

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 9, 2026

If the 2021 Yquem is defined by its racy acidity, the 2022 by its richness and power, then the defining feature of the newly released 2023 Yquem is its elegance. The juxtaposition of these three vintages at a memorable Vinous Icons dinner in New York highlighted how the growing season shaped each wine. This is a rare trio of consecutive great vintages, like 1948/49/50 and 1988/89/90, all poured later that evening. In addition, the following day, I tasted some of the individual 2023 lots that had been vinified and bottled separately—a fascinating exercise.

“Temperatures were above the historical average,” Lorenzo Pasquini, Yquem’s CEO, explained as he presented one of their immensely detailed meteorological graphs. “Spring saw warm conditions with rain, and this created mildew pressure. We have been certified organic since 2020, and we learned a lot about dealing with mildew organically after the 2021 vintage. The summer was dry, and though hot, temperatures were not as high as they were in 2022. There was one storm on August 15. We did two picks of shrivelled, not botrytised grapes in mid-September. Then, we had four weeks that were dry with hot temperatures. This led to an early onset of botrytis and enabled the concentration to come quickly while preserving acidity. The two major pickings that form the heart of the blend took place between September 28 and October 4, with four tris in total. The last, known as the “tails,” was not included in the blend. In recent years, the modus operandi has changed in terms of using less sulphur and less racking during élevage.”

The 2023 Yquem, a blend of 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, contains 154 grams per litre of residual sugar—less than the 2022. As usual, the 2023 was matured in 100% new oak, mainly French, with a small percentage from Austria. The nose is so seductive that it should come with a warning sticker. Pure and mellow, it offers beguiling scents of wild honey, quince jelly, almond shavings and that signature hint of saffron destined to accentuate with age. It displays wonderful definition, though it does not have the “aromatic drama” of the previous vintage. The palate has exquisite balance and poise that belies the depth of this Yquem, though it is less exuberant, less ostentatious than the 2022. It is really the umami sensation that defines the 2023, how it caresses, almost soothes the grateful taste buds, vanilla and flecks of white chocolate lingering on the aftertaste. This will probably drink a little sooner than the 2022. If the 2023 does have a fault, it’s that it is so flattering in its flush of youth that it will be difficult to resist. Sublime. 99/Drink 2030-2090.

The 2023 Y de Yquem that commenced the Vinous Icons dinner is an equal blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. This iteration has a tensile, nervous nose that leans a little towards Riesling in style, with background scents of elderflower, passion fruit and Japanese mirin that lend intrigue. Tightly coiled at first, the 2023 opens with 30 minutes in the glass. The palate is refined like its “elder brother,” distinguished by its verticality, almost aloof initially before gaining more depth. Touches of linseed and white peach are quite disarming towards the poised finish, but this will require some bottle age, as proven by a wonderful 1964 poured in the same flight. The Y de Yquem (sometimes referred to as just Ygrec) was picked from August 12, the second-earliest ever. Very classy. 93/Drink 2030-2050.

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