1973 Californian Cabernets

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 28, 2024

A recent discussion about 1970s California wine on the Vinous forum prompted me to cleave away a couple of tasting notes from my round-up of mature wines. Of course, in the early 1970s, Bordeaux was in the doldrums, afflicted by excessive yields, outdated practices, lack of investment and poor growing seasons. Meanwhile, California had the bit between its teeth and laid the foundations for what led to Steven Spurrier’s epochal “Judgement of Paris” in 1976. At their best, this quartet of 1973s from California proves not only the quality at that time but also their potential longevity, which is on par with the greatest Bordeaux. I enjoyed these at Moon Bay restaurant in Hong Kong last September with a group of wine lovers.

The 1973 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon was a limited production from Silver Oak that was discontinued in the late Seventies. This is spectacular! Vibrant blackberry and raspberry fruit on the nose. Peppermint and licorice hints come through with time. Very complex and involving, these aromatics almost "hug" the olfactory senses. The palate has exquisite balance and is powerful yet refined, with licorice-tinged black fruit, allspice, nutmeg and candied orange peel. Blessed with stunning delineation on the finish, this Cabernet has an effortless quality that means it ranks among the best Californian wines from this golden period. 97/Drink 2024-2044. The 1973 Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon from Château Montelena just misses a bit of refinement on the nose, predominantly quite glossy red fruit intermixed with balsamic and boot polish. I suspect another bottle out there is more precise. The palate offers Morello cherries and crushed strawberry, iodine and Provençal herbs. It’s pretty Rhône-like, with a sweet, punchy finish. A bit "untamed" compared to the superior Silver Oak 1973, it still has much to offer. 91/Drink 2024-2030.

Two more bottles formed the quartet, though they did not achieve the same level as either the Silver Oak or Montelena. The 1973 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon from Beringer has a strong peppermint nose, well-defined with incense and crushed violets. The palate is very sweet and candied on the entry, framed by fine tannins. With time, it becomes "solid" in character. But it doesn't quite flow like the best Californian Cabernets from this vintage and feels simplistic on the finish. 88/Drink 2024-2028. Finally, the 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon from Heitz Cellars. The bottle at Moon Bay had a touch of TCA, which is frustrating because you glimpse a great wine beneath. I enjoyed a representative example from a memorable tasting in London some years ago. This had a notable deep color. Earthy, loamy scents on the nose with some volatility commingle with wild mint. The palate is more impressive, fresh and harmonious, not nearly as flamboyant as the legendary 1974, with an almost Saint-Julien-styled finish. 90?/Drink 2024-2030.

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