1924 Gruaud Larose

BY NEAL MARTIN | OCTOBER 14, 2024

This century-old bottle of 1924 Gruaud Larose was a late addition to a mouth-watering line-up of fermented grape juice poured at Ming Court restaurant on my final night in Hong Kong. At this point in its history, Désiré Cordier had been proprietor for six years, and as indicated by the label, this came from the Sarget part of the estate which was later reunited in 1935. The label also indicated “F. Froidefond à Barsac,” likely referring to the same family that owned Château de Rolland. Doubtless, they bought a stash from Cordier either for personal consumption or to sell.

I have tasted many vintages of this Saint-Julien, but never the 1924. What made this bottle more enticing was the high fill level, particularly because it had never been reconditioned. This came replete with original cork (reconditioned bottles are an issue I shall delve into in a future article). Showing minor bricking on the rim and garnet core, the 1924 remains clear in color. The bouquet is a complete knockout: mulberry, molasses, hints of dark chocolate that recede with aeration, classic scents of _sous-bois_ taking over with maybe a scintilla of Brettanomyces. The wine blossoms for 45 minutes before oxygen begins to dismantle it. Svelte tannins mark the palate, and the texture suggests this was a rich wine in its youth. Very elegant and harmonious, even after 100 years, it exudes Saint-Julien typicité. The finish is slightly candied, implying a touch of residual sugar. Like the aromatics, the palate begins to fade in the glass after a while. Nevertheless, it testifies to the magnificent quality of this estate’s wines in this fecund decade. 95/Drink 2024-2034.

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