Cellar Favorite: Kopke 80-Year-Old Tawny Port

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 2, 2026

Kopke was founded in 1638 by German diplomat Cristiano Köpke, making it the world’s oldest Port house. Since the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (IVDP) recognised the 80-Year-Old category, there has been a consumer trend towards longer-aged tawnies over the last few years. I find that these wines can be superior to the more renowned vintage Ports, often a little mellower and less high-toned. They are the fortified equivalent of a warm fire on a dismal January day, like the one I’m looking at out my office window right now!

Kopke recently released 1,200 liters of 80-Year-Old from their reserves in Vila Nova de Gaia. Overseen by Carlos Alves, winemaker and master blender, this release comprises reserves dating between the late nineteenth century and 1947. Fermented and foot-trodden in traditional stone lagares, it was matured in wooden casks over decades. This Tawny has a stunning nose: fresh fig, dried honey, molasses, sandalwood and just a background grilled walnut note, delivering richness but bewitching control. The aromatics never overwhelm the olfactory senses. The palate displays exquisite balance, texturally viscous with red berries, Medjool dates and fig, hints of clove emerging towards the finish. It is a fabulous and, dare I say, crowd-pleasing Tawny thanks to its sweetness (total sugar is 168 grams per litre), yet it delivers in terms of sophistication. 97/Drink 2026-2060

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