L'Expression

11 Rue Maufoux

21200 Beaune, France

Tel. +33 3 80 80 05 89

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 14, 2020

The Food:

Scallop carpaccio; avocado cream, lime, coriander

Roasted monkfish, lobster, sweet potatoes

Pears; roasted apples, dried grapes, chestnut cream sabayon, Cognac

The Wine: 

2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay Clos du Verseuil 1er Cru            92 

L'Expression is a welcome addition to the dining scene in Beaune. Guests will recognize Damien Ravion and Jérémy Brisset from the time they worked together at the Bistro de L'Hôtel de Beaune. At L’Expression, Ravion and Brisset offer a seasonal menu with updated bistro classics and a handful of more modern creations, all done in a pure, ingredient-driven style that is hugely appealing. Ravion and Brisset spent years building their wine program, and that allowed them to open with an unreal selection for a new restaurant. I have eaten at L’Expression twice since it opened last year and came away deeply impressed on both occasions.

Scallop carpaccio; avocado cream, lime, coriander.

The first time I dined at L’Expression I sat in the back room with friends. On this night, I was by myself so I opted for the bar. That turned out to be a great spot to watch Ravion and his assistant turn out a number of tantalizing dishes. The scallop carpaccio was brilliant in its simplicity and purity. A more elaborate preparation, the seared monkfish was served over a bed of lobster and sweet potatoes, then finished off with a decadent lobster bisque. The rich, bold flavors screamed for red wine. I very much enjoyed Thibaud Clerget’s 2017 Volnay Clos du Verseuil 1er Cru. It’s a lighter vintage for Clerget, so I was not surprised to see the Clos du Verseuil showing so well. I especially admired the wine’s focus and delineation. Classic Volnay.

Roasted monkfish, lobster, sweet potatoes.

The table next to me enjoyed the braised beef rib, accompanied with roasted vegetables, and the steamed line-caught sea bass, topped with orange, grapefruit segments, capers, tomatoes and lemon. Both looked amazing coming out of the kitchen. The beef and sea bass are served family style and are said to serve two. I don’t think I know two people who could have finished those platters!

Left: Braised beef rib, accompanied with roasted vegetables. Right: Damien Ravion plates the steamed line-caught sea bass, served with orange, grapefruit, capers, tomatoes and lemon.

Dessert is really not my thing most of the time, but I frankly did not want to leave the coziness of L’Expression, knowing the only thing that awaited me was a ton of emails, so I had the pear dessert, which was light and not too sweet, in other words, right up my alley.

A seat at the bar is the perfect place to watch the action unfold at L’Expression.

Readers visiting Beaune should make a point to stop by L’Expression. Food and wine are both terrific, and the location just a few steps off the Place Carnot is incredibly convenient. It’s a small restaurant, so booking ahead is absolutely essential. I can't wait to go back.