L'Ecailler du Bistrot

22 Rue Paul Bert

75011 Paris, France

+33 1 43 72 76 77

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MAY 22, 2026

The Food:

Plateau Homard Bleu

Bistrot Paul Bert Filet of Beef au Poivre

Thinly sliced apples; vanilla ice cream, salted butter caramel

Citrus sorbet

The Wine:

2014 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Pur Sang                  94

One of my fondest childhood memories is sitting in a Parisian café with my parents, indulging in what then seemed like a huge plateau de fruits de mer. Even today, enjoying this culinary delight with a nice glass of wine remains a quintessential Parisian delight. With that in mind, we booked a table L'Ecailler du Bistrot on the suggestion of a dear friend.

Located in the 11th Arrondissement, L'Ecailler du Bistrot is the sister restaurant of the well-known Bistrot Paul Bert, which is just next door. As its name implies, L'Ecailler du Bistrot specializes in oysters, along with mostly fish and seafood. The restaurant is quite small and cozy, which adds to its considerable ambience. We love the vibe. L'Ecailler’s wine list is small but well curated. A selection of older wines is a nice surprise.

Plateau Homard Bleu.

It’s our first night in Paris. After a long day of travel, dinner is on the lighter side this time around. The Plateau Homard Bleu consists of one-half blue lobster, red shrimp, whelks, 4 Belon oysters and 4 creuse oysters. Everything tastes like the ocean. We are off to a fine start. The

Bistrot Paul Bert Filet of Beef au Poivre is a favorite from next door. The meat is perfectly cooked and then topped with a bold Sarawak pepper sauce. This is as classic as classic gets.

Bistrot Paul Bert Filet of Beef au Poivre.

I was fortunate to be introduced to Didier Dagueneau and his wines in the 1990s, long before the wine world became obsessed with cult labels. The Loire is one of my favorite regions, in part because I approach it more as a consumer rather than as a critic. I especially love the whites with bottle age, so there is no way I am going to pass up a chance to drink the

2014 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Pur Sang, made just a few years before Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau took his family’s wines out of the traditional appellation system. Aromatic and so expressive, the 2014 Pur Sang offers the whole range of mature Sauvignon Blanc notes, along with a kiss of French oak and light tropical overtones. The 2014 has aged impeccably, but I also don’t see it improving much from here. It’s a great match with the seafood, perhaps less ideal with the beef, but absolutely delicious by any measure. We enjoy it greatly.

Thinly sliced apples with vanilla ice cream and salted butter caramel is another staple of the French kitchen, like a tart without the tart. Citrus sorbet is a wonderfully vibrant and refreshing conclusion to dinner.

Thinly sliced apples; vanilla ice cream, salted butter caramel.

L'Ecailler du Bistrot is well worth a visit. Readers spending time in some of the more touristy neighborhoods in Paris will want to plan adequate travel time. My only regret is not having explored the menu more deeply. For that, there is always next time.

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