All'Osteria Bottega

Via Santa Caterina, 51

40123 Bologna BO, Italy

Tel. +39 051 585111

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 21, 2019

The Food:

Culatello di Zibello (aged 36 months)

Mortadella

Prosciutto di Parma (aged 36 months)

Tagliatelle alla Bolognese

Tagliatelle with braised onions

Lasagne

Cotoletta Petroniana (Veal cutlet, pan-roasted with capon broth and topped with Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano)

The Wine:

2013 Sergio Barale Barolo Bussia Riserva        91 

Bologna is one of Italy’s temples of gastronomy. There are few better places to partake in its delights than at All’Osteria Bottega, an informal eatery that serves up a bevy of tried and true classics.

Culatello di Zibello (aged 36 months)

The tiny dining room, with its cramped tables, bustles with a level of energy that is only matched by Owner Daniele Minarelli’s animated, large-than-life personality as he rattles off a menu full of local specialties. There is no wine list. Minarelli runs through the choices until we settle on Barale’s 2013 Barolo Bussia Riserva. “The Piedmontese are terrible,’” he says. “They make no wine. It is literally impossible to get the wines. The Tuscans, on the other hand, they are smart. They actually make wine.” It’s hard not to go along with the showmanship and chuckle.

Tagliatelle alla Bolognese

We start a selection of cured meats, all of which are sublime. Mineralli is passionate in sourcing his meats from local suppliers who work with natural products. Many of these small, artisan producers are listed in the menu. It is tempting to think that all culatellos, mortadellas and prosciuttos are the same, but once you sample the versions made by Emilia-Romagna’s artisan producers, there is just no going back. The meats are delicate yet full of flavor and never heavy nor overly filling. I especially like the Culatello, which is divine.

Tagliatelle with braised onions

Our three pastas are delicious, but not especially memorable beyond that. The Tagliatelle alla Bolognese is certainly fine, but the overall presentation could be a bit more polished without detracting from authenticity in any way. Although the tagliatelle with braised onions is tasty, it doesn’t hold much interest beyond the first two or three tastes. I could never eat a whole plate of it. Lasagne is another Emilia-Romagna classic. At All'Osteria Bottega, the lasagne are not especially distinguished, except by the salt, which is too much. All of that is quickly forgotten with a truly special dish that ends this dinner on a high note. Cotoletta alla Petroniana (also known as Cotoletta all Bolognese) is a traditional preparation in which the pounded veal chop is pan-roasted, then finished with capon broth, Prosciutto di Parma and melted Parmigiano-Reggiano. It is simply to die for.

Cotoletta Petroniana (Veal cutlet, pan-roasted with capon broth and topped with Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano)

After a long day of eating and drinking, we keep the wine simple. Not that there is much choice here, anyway. Barale has been on a roll of late. Their 2013 Barolo Bussia Riserva is one of the early high points in a remarkable transformation that is underway at this family-owned estate in Barolo. Although a bit rough around the edges, the 2013 is enjoyable and  works well with the food.

All'Osteria Bottega is well worth a visit for readers who are looking for a truly authentic neighborhood restaurant. While words like “osteria” and “trattoria” have been gentrified in recent years, All'Osteria Bottega is a true osteria, with all of the pros and cons that are part of dining and hospitality at this level. Don’t expect anything fancy. Reservations are essential, and unless you are a glutton for punishment, don’t even think about driving in this part of town, as parking is next to impossible to find. That’s what taxis are for.