Marea

240 Central Park South

New York, NY 10019

Tel (212) 582-5100

Wine:

2011 Colli di Lapio Fiano d’Avellino 92

Food:

Bigeye Tuna Tartare; Fennel, Blood Orange, Taggiasca Olives, Salsify Crips

Tagliolini; Manilla clams, calamari, white wine, hot chiles

Pipette; Shrimp and Seppia Ragu, Pecorino, Garbanzo Beans (not photographed)

Marea is one of my favorite restaurants in New York City. Executive Chef Michael White does many things well, but I am generally attracted most to the crudos and pastas. White has a rare talent in being able to innovate, but his food never loses its ingredient-driven focus and pure Italianit à, something that is very hard to do. Wine Director Francesco Grosso has built a list with numerous affordable wines, but readers who want to splurge will find plenty of choices for indulgence. The recent addition of the 2002 Dom Perignon – a great wine from a historic vintage – at $60/glass is a rare treat.

- See my video interview with Francesco Grosso

On my most recent visit the Bigeye tuna tartare was absolutely delicious, with beautifully delineated flavors and great balance of textures. I rarely miss a change to order the tagliolini with Manila clams, a bold dish with tons of personality, not to mention a kick of spice. The pipette with shrimp and sepia ragu was rich, flavorful and perfect for wine. Speaking of which, we enjoyed a fabulous bottle of Colli di Lapio’s 2011 Fiano di Avellino. This is a relatively generous vintage for the estate’s Fiano, but the ripeness actually worked well with some of the lustier preparations on the menu. I loved the ash, tar and mineral nuances that emerged over time. I haven’t been to Marea for dinner in a few months, but have never been disappointed there, either. The menu is naturally more extensive, and includes a number of dishes (especially the steak) that are fabulous for red wine.

Other menu highlights:

Grilled Octopus; smoked potatoes, pickled red onion, radish, chiles, tonnato

Nove Scotia lobster; burrata, eggplant al funghetto, basil

Fusilli; red wine braised octopus, bone marrow

Garganelli; Crab, Santa Barbara sea urchin, basil

Antonio Galloni

May 2013