La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy - Côte de Nuits

BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 22, 2020

The second part of my 2019 Burgundy report focuses on the Côte de Nuits. Before broaching the wines, there is one subject that kept cropping up during conversations with winemakers, one not only germane to the vintage in question, but also future vintages. I kept hearing the word “degeneration” and never pursued it further. When I asked for further explanation, I found they referred to a particular rootstock, 161-49. It is a problem child that could have major ramifications.

We Need To Talk About 161-49

Theoretically, 161-49 rootstock should be ideal for Burgundy because it has a high tolerance to limestone and dry conditions. However in recent years, vineyard managers began noticing vines grafted onto 161-49 were shrinking at an alarming rate, even in some of Burgundy’s most revered vineyards. There is no cure. The only remedy is to uproot the vines and consequently you might be saying au revoir to some of your most beloved labels. Marie-Andrée Mugneret at Mugneret-Gibourg is increasingly concerned about their prized holding of Ruchottes-Chambertin that was only replanted a few years ago. Could vine age be a factor? Loïc Dugat-Py told me: “We have some 161-49 rootstock. We don’t have any problem with the older vines that are 50 or 60 years old, but the vines that are 10 to 20 years old seem to degenerate. I think it is because of the increasing temperatures and the lack of water.”

Dugat-Py was not the only person to point towards climate change as one cause. “Everything planted in the 1980s does badly,” Alec Seysses explaine. “We find the grafting is important. The standard graft is Omega and is often done by machine. But we find the greffe anglaise [basically a diagonal cut] is better but that has to be done by hand. We have changed nursery.”

Not everyone is negative.

“We do not have this problem,” Alessandro Noli told me when I visited Clos de Tart. “It could be a question of the quality and interaction with the grafted material or with the terroir. I talk a lot with nurseries. But it’s a good rootstock.”

Boris Champy posing amongst the golden autumnal hue of his Le Clous vineyard in the Hautes-Côtes.

Boris Champy takes a different view. His vines contain a lot of 161-49, but found no degeneration. He suggested that the cause could be the shock of vines being converted to biodynamics and receiving less potassium in the soil. His vines, inherited from Didier Montchovet, have had over four decades to become accustomed to biodynamics, which has afforded them some form of resistence.

You’ll hear more about this in the future.

A Conversation: The 2019 In Côte de Nuits?

You: “We covered the Côte de Beaune in part one and now it’s time for the Côte de Nuits. What are we looking at in terms of the 2019 reds?”

“Generally, we are looking at another growing season with expressive, at times almost flamboyant aromatics. The reds are highly perfumed with accentuated floral characteristics are often utterly seductive. The aromatics are delineated and focused: black cherries, wild strawberry, orange zest and blood orange, occasionally cassis on riper Pinot Noirs, violet and iris petals, more rose petals in Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey, often with an underlying earthiness.”

“On the palate?”

“First and foremost, the warmth of the growing season is brilliantly disguised or subsumed into the character of many wines. It is remarkable, almost irrational, how the finest 2019s maintain detail, clarity and tension and sapid finishes, thanks to reasons already outlined. Their acidic nerve underpins the success of 2019. These are vivid and bright wines, shiny as a new button. The fruit is often intense but rarely overblown or marred by overripe characteristics like prune or raisin. Grape skins were not too thick so they are not like 2005 where the wines were so structured and tough and are taking a long time to come around. The 2019s reds will be more approachable, yet they have the balance and substance to repay cellaring.”

“Let’s examine the Côte de Nuits appellation by appellation like we did for the Côte de Beaune, starting with Nuits Saint-Georges.”

Me: “That seems logical.”

You: “Do we need to linger on Nuits Saints-Georges? It has no Grand Crus. Maybe that’s why I never really pay it full attention.”

Me: “That’s a pity. No, there are no Grand Crus. Scientists can invent a cure for Covid quicker than it takes authorities to decide whether to promote Les Saint-Georges. Maybe the appellation lacks the drawing power of a superstar winemaker. But really interesting things are happening here. Nuits Saint-Georges excels in 2019 and provides rich pickings for those prepared to spend but are not millionaires, particularly in the north of the appellation where Premier Crus such as Aux Murgers and Les Boudots borrow Vosne-Romanée’s floral attributes and silky textures.”

“So I should head there?”

“Not necessarily. Les Pruliers to the south of the town performed very well, perhaps because the soil is slightly more clayey than others. Check out some of the examples from Henri Gouges, Robert Chevillon or Jean Grivot.”

Maxime Rion, together with his father Patrice, is making some marvellous wines from the winery in Prémeaux-Prissey.

“Who is leading the way?”

“Certainly Domaine Robert Chevillon has been extremely consistent in the last decade. Brothers Denis and Bertrand preside over several of the appellation’s finest Premier Crus and conjure fruit-driven, sensual, quiet plush wines, the absence of stems lending them purity and approachability. Their Les Saint-Georges and Vaucrains are consistently outstanding and in 2019 their run of form continues. Also look out for Domaine Patrice Rion. Patrice’s son Maxime is really knocking the ball out of the park with satin-textured, complex wines that reach their apogee in Clos St-Marc, advantaged by deep sponge-like soils that could retain moisture during the dry summer. I am also a fan of Domaine Tawse where Pascal Marchand and Mark Fincham oversee one of the most impressive portfolios in the Côte d’Or. Their wines deserve more kudos. Overall, I was really pleased by the quality of wines in this appellation and most remain value-for-money compared to Vosne-Romanée or Gevrey-Chambertin”

“How about quantities?”

“Nuits Saint-Georges seems more discombobulated by the difficult flowering and warmth of the growing season. For example, Domaine Gouges picked their Les Saint-Georges at just 15hl/ha. To reiterate, it affected quantity rather than quality.”

“Vosne-Romanée next.”

“You could argue that Vosne-Romanée is home to Burgundy’s most sought-after wines, its reputation gilded by association with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy and so on. In 2019, I would not declare it superior to other appellations, even if it did produce many fabulous wines. Winemakers such as Thomas Collardot at Coquard-Loison-Fleurot and Jean-Nicolas Méo opined that their 2019s display more elegance than their 2018 counterparts and broadly speaking, that is true. Vosne’s signature floral scent is untrammelled in 2019 so much so that at times it was like walking into a violet-obsessed florists. This scent distinguishes it from other appellations. Vosne-Romanée is where you come for the most luxurious, satin-textured expressions of Pinot Noir. I noticed quite an array of harvest dates, some like Lamarche commencing on 7 September, Comte du Liger-Belair on 14 September, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti a day later and Grivot on 18 September. As I have already pointed out, that makes a big difference in term of sugar level, though it is unwise to draw conclusions about the style of wine from picking date alone because there are other factors. Grivot’s wines had plenty of freshness despite later harvest and Etienne Grivot felt that he had to be patient to attain complete skin maturity.”

“Alcohol?”

“They can be toppy. Jean-Nicolas Méo rued that a couple of his cuvées reached 14.5-14.6° though Pascal Mugneret’s 2019s come in at 12.7-13.4°. Yet both started the harvest on the same day! So a lot depends on your vineyard husbandry, type of soil and so forth.”

Maxime Chuerlin surrounded by his canine cellar hands at Domaine Georges Noëllat.

“Do I have to buy Grand Crus? Prices have gone through the roof in recent years and my allocations has shrunk from cases down to thimbles.”

“There is a strong argument that the pedigree of a vineyard is determined by its efficacy in regulating water to the vines. So a dry vintage like 2019 enables the Grand Crus show their mettle. It sounds predictable but Mon Dieu! When I tasted wines such as the Grands Echézeaux from Domaine Georges Noëllat or Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the Richebourg from Etienne Grivot or Hudelot-Noëllat, I heard choirs of angels.”

“What were the singing?”

“They were singing: You can’t afford them.”

“Looks like I will need to re-mortgage the house then.”

“In 2019 it is not compulsory to buy Grands Crus. There are awe-inspiring Premier Crus. Beau Monts or Beaumonts, however you spell it, produced regal wines, likewise Malconsorts whose inherent structure neatly counterbalanced the richness of the vintage. Les Suchots suffered marginal frost damage but winemakers seem to have tamed its opulence, its tendency to show off, and create slightly more refined, you might say “cooler” expressions of this vineyard. And do not ignore some of the excellent Village Crus. Take Les Barreaux for example. It’s often overlooked because its location, high on the slope above Cros Parantoux and Richebourg. But in a warm growing season it benefits from slightly cooler temperatures and there are lovely 2019s from this vineyard. Do you want to know the Grand Cru that made headline news for me?”

“Tell me.”

“Clos Vougeot.”

“I thought the only Clos Vougeot worth mentioning comes from the higher part of the vineyard?”

“That’s a common misconception. Take a look at a map and note the superstars farming its lower stretches such as Lamarche, Grivot, Leroy and Arnaud Mortet. As François Labet pointed out, it seems lower because they raised the RN74 so that drivers could admire the view. The reality is that 2019 is probably the first vintage in a long while where Clos Vougeot really upped its game. It is far more consistent than previous years and with some real highs: Labets’ own Château de la Tour, Mugneret-Gibourg, Etienne Grivot, Méo-Camuzet are just some that produced knockout Clos Vougeots that tend to be a shade more reasonably priced than other Grand Crus.”

François Labet with his son Edouard, posing on the balcony at their winery looking over Clos Vougeot on the first day of my Burgundy tastings.

“Moving to Chambolle-Musigny. I love my Chambolles – so sensual and complex.”

“Bad news is that because I had to return earlier than expected and consequently could not taste either de Vogüé and J-F Mugnier, whilst Gilbert Felettig fell ill just before our appointment. On the other hand, I did taste several others and for certain there are sublime 2019s here that retain those facets you mention: floral aromatics, rose petal to Vosne’s violets, pliant tannins, disarming purity of fruit, approachability. Christophe Roumier excelled with a cluster of profound Chambolles that unfortunately few people will be able to afford given the insatiable demand and secondary market prices that seem absurd...until you taste them.”

Sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée Mugneret at Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg. Masks were removed before the tasting.

“So what should they buy instead?”

“Ghislaine Barthod presides over perhaps the most impressive array of Premier Crus within the appellation. These are not blockbusters built on richness and density, but aspire towards transparency and Pinoté. Combine that with the warm growing season and you have a raft of complete and harmonious wines. Their Chambolle Les Fuées is one of the best wines that I have tasted at this address and a Premier Cru that excels in 2019. The only problem is that quantities are small. Dominique Le Guen is also doing a great job at Domaine Hudelot-Baillet, especially now his new cellar has been built.”

“Morey-Saint-Denis. That’s an appellation I feel that I should pay more attention to. I am always seduced by Chambolle or Gevrey-Chambertin.”

“Morey-Saint-Denis is always a little harder to taste when young. The wines tend to be more structured and backward, especially when compared to neighbouring Chambolle. But there is an incredible amount of construction going on in the village. Smell that wet cement in the air! Entering the village you have Dujac’s new winery. Further up LVMH’s vast wealth being poured into Domaine des Lambrays with an excavation so deep that it looks as if they are tunnelling to the Earth’s core. Their rival across the road, Clos de Tart, has already overhauled their vat-room and no expense is being spared in renovating the entire winery thanks to its owner Groupe Artémis or François Pinault, who is not short of a bob or two. Morey-Saint-Denis is an appellation with ambition and now with very deep pockets.”

Jacques Desvauges reaching for his 2019. The barrels are arranged in a specific order to reflect the location within the vineyard.

“Does that mean a change in wines?”

“Well, it’s funny. Historically Clos de Tart and Domaine des Lambrays were polar opposites due to the tenets of former winemakers, Sylvain Pitiot and Thierry Brouin respectively. Now Alessandro Noli is already moderating the new oak and picking earlier at Clos de Tart, whilst Jacques Desvauges is applying the parcellaire approach at Lambrays, introducing biodynamics and addressing the ripeness issues that could manifest excessively green and vegetal wines. See their producer profiles for details. There is a sense of the two wines converging when they were once polar opposites, so it will be fascinating to see how they might jostle for the top spot. What is for sure is that their2019s are both extremely good and markedly better than their 2018s.”

“That must be awkward when Noli and Desvauges bump into the street.”

“No, it seems very amicable between them. Competition is good. One doesn’t make a brilliant wine at the expense of the other. But there is much more to Morey-Saint-Denis then that pair.”

“For example?”

Alec Seysses at Domaine Dujac. Their 2019 Clos de la Roche was bewitching.

“Dujac’s 2019s are deeply impressive this year, crowned by a Clos de la Roche that represents one of the vintage’s peaks. They might not have the financial clout of Clos de Tart or Lambrays, but they have an enviable array of prestigious vineyards, a bevy of talent, the sage advice of Jacques Seysses and as I mentioned, their own new winery on its way. Again, details are in the producer profile. Exciting times.”

“Who’s going places?”

“Nicolas Groffier has charted a new course at Domaine Robert Groffier. Perversely he does not have a single cuvée in Morey-Saint-Denis. Romain Taupenot is building a loyal following for his wines that are a little lighter and very terroir expressive, compared to say Perrot-Minot and Arlaud that are richer and denser. Virgil Lignier at Lignier-Michelot and Laurent Lignier at Domaine Hubert Lignier also produced a raft of great wines.”

“Any vineyards stand out?”

“For me Clos Saint-Denis performed exceptionally well in 2019. I think the warmer growing seasons favour this Grand Cru, so that the best wines combine structure, freshness and fruit intensity to occasionally dazzling effect. On the numerous occasions I assessed them side-by-side, I just preferred the Clos Saint-Denis to Clos de la Roche.”

“Why is that?”

“It might be because Clos Saint-Denis’s brown Bajocian marl soils contains a little more clay and so might give a small advantage in terms of managing water reserves. But it is only marginal.”

“And what if you are on a budget?”

“There are a bevy of great Premier Crus such as the La Faconnières from Lignier-Michelot or why not head straight for Taupenot-Merme’s excellent Morey-Saint-Denis Village.”

“Let’s move one appellation north to Gevrey-Chambertin. What should I be looking for?”

“It’s such a vast appellation with so many different microclimates and soils types, not to mention a number of outstanding growers exploiting vineyards to their full potential. Overall, my impression is that alcohol levels were slightly lower than in Morey-Saint-Denis. The underlying factor that determined quality is often the location, altitude and orientation of the vineyard irrespective of status. Amongst the Grand Crus I found that Chapelle-Chambertin performed extremely well, generally better than Latricières-Chambertin, even if Domaine J-L Trapet produced one of the wines of the vintage from that very Grand Cru. Perhaps the 2019 vintage highlighted the gap between Charmes-Chambertin and the other Grand Crus unless you own some of the very ancient vines, like Roty and Denis Bachelet.”

Three generations of the family Trapet in Gevrey-Chambertin.

“Well, this is all going to cost a small fortune.”

“Only if you restrict yourself to the Grand Crus. Gevrey has many high-performing Premier Crus. Step forward Lavaux, or Lavaut, Saint-Jacques. There are some incredible 2019s from this 9.5-hectare vineyard. Lying just to the south of Clos Saint-Jacques, it benefits from the cooling influence from the Combe Lavaux, once seen as a disadvantage but clearly beneficial in terms of regulating temperatures. Dugat, Dugat-Py, Louis Jadot and Duroché all produced stunning wines from here that could even outshine Clos Saint-Jacques? We will see.”

“Is there anywhere else I should be looking?”

Bertrand and Bernard Maume. Your father is always there for you.

“The Village Crus in Gevrey are impressive, maybe the best in the Côte d’Or. I was amazed by the quality of the Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud from Domaine Maume for example. It lies just below Les Corbeaux on marl soils and on the same contours and exposure as the Grand Crus, their vines almost 70-years old. The Burgundy hierarchy is not set in stone and here is one example where a wine transcends its status.”

“Do we need to bother with Fixin? It’s the Ringo Starr of the Côte d’Or – less talented than the others.”

“Hey, Ringo is a great drummer. Fixin has talent. It’s just not realizing its full potential. It remains the case that one grower is blazing a trail and that is...”

“...Amélie Berthaut of Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet.”

Amélie Berthaut, posing outside the tasting room sporting new-mum glow.

“Correct. Ably assisted by her husband, Nicolas Faure, whose own wines you will find in this report, they are really setting the pace. Through inheritance they have more prestigious vineyards at their disposal, but their most exciting cuvées are in Fixin. Hopefully next year I will investigate this appellation further because it needs two or three more growers to join the charge and put Fixin on the map. At the moment, the focus is more on its neighbour, Marsannay, despite it lacking any Premier Crus.”

“Why is that?”

“Mainly because the Marsannay appellation is comprised mostly of alluvial soils. But there are patches of serious “dirt”, which is why many of its finest producers bottle separate their Village Crus into various climats. As such, they probably don’t receive the respect that they deserve - just because there is no “Premier Cru” after the name. The dossier applying for promotion is mired in bureaucracy, though there has been one change. From 2019 Bourgogne Le Chapitre has been reclassified as a Marsannay. It’s a great little vineyard on the fringe of Dijon that enjoyed a high reputation before being engulfed by the suburbs.”

The Pataille brothers in Marsannay.

“Which growers should I look for?”

“Sylvain Pataille, the leading proponent of the so-called Aligoteur movement, which has restored the tarnished image of Aligoté. Just taste his wonderful examples from Clos du Roy or Champ Forey. Year on year I appreciate this grape variety more and more. Then there is Laurent Fournier doing wonders at Domaine Jean Fournier. Bruno Clair and Gevrey-based Domaine Roty might own more auspicious vineyards but their Marsannay form important parts of their portfolios.”

“Now we have reached the outskirts of Dijon. This is where our journey ends.”

“Yes. I hope you enjoyed our discussion."

“What if I have further questions?”

“Just ask me on the forum.”

Laurent Fournier is always full of energy, just like his wines that continue to offer great value-for-money.

The Market

Every year there is speculation about the so-called “Burgundy Bubble” bursting. Whilst there were indications of softening last year, Burgundy seems resilient to the travails of the world in 2020. Generally, demand remains strong. For blue-chip names, it remains insatiable. The problem for the region is that headline-grabbing stratospheric prices drag up prices for more modest wines, including some riding on the coattails of vineyard status instead of quality. When pleasant but unspectacular Village Crus sell for three figures, then you have a problem - wine priced by association instead of supply and demand. It tarnishes Burgundy’s reputation. People can no longer afford the wines, not least restaurants already fighting for survival. Amongst the younger generation of consumers with less disposable income, Burgundy has become unattainable, just like top Bordeaux, rightly or wrongly creating an impression that Burgundy is all about the money.

With one or two exceptions that is certainly not the motivation of growers, but who are we to deny someone making a better income if they can? Covid, US import taxes (albeit above 14° alcohol – there’s one pecuniary advantage of global warming) that may or may not be rescinded by the incoming administration, global economic malaise and the abundant crop in 2018 should exert downward pressure of 2019 prices. Upward pressure derives from the banal fact that many wine-lovers have a romantic, spiritual attachment with Burgundy unmatched by any other wine region, coupled with a shortage of supply, in particular with respect to the whites. Scarcity is appealing.

I asked several Burgundy importers for their view. Gregory Doody, CEO of Vineyard Brands, is hopeful that tariffs between the EU and the USA will be lifted but went on to say that they have not impacted demand for Burgundy, partly because they shipped a majority of the wines in advance and partly because many are exempt due to the alcohol level. The pandemic has had greater impact, not in terms of overall sales of Burgundy, but in the way it is consumed, shifting from restaurants to home consumption. He believes that consumers feel that there is no substitute for great Burgundy and that the wines retain their allure across the price spectrum. With 2019 and 2020 on the horizon, Doody does not envisage demand waning.

I asked Jason Haynes of Stannery Wines, for his view on how the 2019 campaign might unfold here in the UK. “Early indications are promising and certainly when out in Burgundy, I found a great deal of sensitivity to the current fragility of the world and its economy...” He went on to say that he think growers will be reluctant to move prices up significantly and that the 2018 vintage refilled producers’ cellars and given them leeway to resist price rises if they wish. Meanwhile, Catherine Petrie MW, Burgundy buyer at Lay & Wheeler told me: “This small, excellent quality vintage certainly merits excitement and demand, but it emerges into a world where global events will have an influence.”

The Côte d’Or, and I specifically exclude Chablis, the Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise, is at a crossroads. It can keep nudging prices upwards. I empathize with that, after all, how would you feel if you had toiled in the vines through the rain and heat, released at a consumer-friendly price, only to find locals restaurants selling your wines for quadruple their ex-cellar price? By the way, that’s an anecdote from a winemaker, not something I made up.

My hunch is that the 2019s will enjoy a strong campaign. Despite economies stagnating, people have money and those with disposable income have fewer outlets to spend it on, restaurants for one. Like 2020’s Bordeaux primeur campaign, wine-lovers exhibit an undiminished desire to purchase wine, partly because of quality and to retain allocations, partly to feel a sense of continuity until our lives return to normal. The major factor will be demand from the US. Despite the optimism, I would not be surprised to see orders cut back this year, with promises that it will return once vaccines help us return to normal and with luck, restaurants returning. We shall see in the coming months.

Final Thoughts

After tasting so many wines and speaking to so many winemakers with differing viewpoints, it becomes easy to get lost in a blizzard of information. The bottom line is that I love the 2019 vintage for both whites and reds, however, it is not a faultless vintage. Quality surpasses winemakers’ expectations and sometimes their emotional response can lend itself to overlooking shortcomings or the cuvées that lag behind others. It is easy to fall into the trap of becoming a cheerleader. I have applied a sober judgement, keeping a rein on my scores for two reasons.

Firstly, I need to be convinced that 2019 is better than classics like 2005, 2010 or 2015. Maybe it is, though scratch behind the effusive praise that shrouds any new vintage and I found that not every winemaker is unequivocal that it matches those aforementioned vintages. Burgundy wines tend to “glisten” out of barrel and lose a bit of shine after bottling. The challenge will be to capture the magic that transferred from vine to vat, vat to barrel, barrel to bottle. A wrong decision at the final hurdle undoes months of hard work. If the 2019s manage to retain that clarity and vivacity then these will give enormous pleasure. By then, I hope that a semblance of normal life will have returned and we can enjoy a vintage that defied the growing season and bestowed Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and lest we forget, Aligoté, at their full terroir-driven best. Burgundy could easily have produced heavy, low acid, smudged and volatile wines. The fact that quality is high and that the 2019 vintage will bestow so much drinking pleasure is testament to both vine and winemaker. It remains a magical wine region that casts a spell over anyone who visits, including myself.

Should I stay or should I go to Burgundy?

These wines make that question easy to answer.

Before I go, here are suggestions for hypothetical assortment cases of 2019, white and red, whether money is no object or you are watching the purse strings (wines listed alphabetically by producer.)

Case of 2019 Whites – Money No Object

Domaine Bachelet-Monnot – Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Domaine Ballot-Millot – Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru

Domaine Chartron – Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret 1er Cru

Domaine des Comtes-Lafon – Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

Domaine des Croix – Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Domaine Drouhin – Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche)

Domaine Etienne Sauzet – Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy – Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Domaine Marc Colin – Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Louis Jadot – Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles

Vincent Girardin – Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru