Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Vertical Tasting & Lunch at La Festa del Barolo

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | DECEMBER 16, 2025

Vigna Rionda holds a special place in the hearts and minds of Barolo lovers. It’s an evocative vineyard, a magical site that has given birth to extraordinary Barolos for the last several decades. The Massolino family have long been stewards of Rionda and all the history that lies within its slopes. This lunch, featuring ten vintages of Massolino’s Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda with Franco Massolino, offered a unique opportunity to explore the nuances of this historic vineyard as seen through the lens of one of its greatest interpreters.

A Bit of Historical Background

Massolino is one of the most historically significant wineries in Serralunga d’Alba. The winery was founded in 1896 and remains one of the pillars of Serralunga. For decades, though, Serralunga was one of the least well-known villages in Barolo, because so many of the best wines there were made from producers based outside the village. Think of Bruno Giacosa with his Barolo Vigna Rionda, Gaja with Sperss and Giacomo Conterno with Monfortino.

The family initially sold wine in bulk, along with a variety of agricultural products, as was the norm during the late 1800s and early 1900s. In the mid-1950s, the family began focusing on wine. Today, brothers Franco and Roberto Massolino are at the helm, with Franco running the business and Roberto overseeing farming and winemaking. The Massolinos are ably assisted by consulting winemaker Dante Scaglione, who worked alongside Bruno Giacosa during some of his very best years.

Franco Massolino as seen in the family’s new library of older vintages.

Vigna Rionda: The Crown Jewel

Massolino owns a number of sites in Serralunga that are bottled as single-vineyard Barolos. These include Parafada, purchased in 1957, and Margheria, a holding the Massolinos cobbled together in five small acquisitions from local families in the early 1970s. Massolino also owns several other parcels across the village that are used for the straight Barolo, as well as Parussi, in Castiglione Falletto, which is bottled as a vineyard designate. Recent years have seen an expansion into Barbaresco.

Vigna Rionda is the crown jewel. Massolino built their holdings in Rionda over time, with one inherited parcel and then subsequent purchases that were added gradually, the most recent dating back to 1990. The Massolinos bottled their first Riserva with the 1982 vintage. Since then, it has become one of the most coveted wines in Piedmont. Long macerations and equally relaxed aging in cask bring out the inner sweetness and perfume that is such a Rionda signature.

The Tasting

As is our custom at Vinous, we arranged the wines in thematic flights, as I feel this gives guests the best opportunity to taste the wines with similar characteristics side by side, regardless of the chronological order of vintages. The wines were opened and decanted for sediment a few hours before service. The team at Manhatta did a tremendous job with the wine service and the overall coordination of the lunch.

Lunch Menu

Reception

Vinous Champagne Bar & Passed Canapés

First

Winter Market Green Salad; Chicory, Tardivo, Winter Citrus, Pickled

Pear, Cider Vinaigrette

An Introduction to Vigna Rionda: 2000, 2011 & 1997

I chose this flight based on wines I thought would perform well to start the lunch. The wines showed as I expected based on prior tastings, with the 2011 in especially fine shape.

Second

Tortellini in Brodo; Roasted Chicken Consommé, Sauternes

A Look Back at the 2000s: 2006, 2001 & 2004

A flight of wines from the 2000s shows three wines in great shape, each a terrific example of vintage and site. All the wines are so vibrant.

Entrée

Choice of:

Poached Halibut; Black Truffle, Leek, Sunchoke Purée, Beurre Blanc

or

Caramelized Poussin Ballotine; Potato Terrine, Fines Herbes, Sauce Vin Jaune

Modern Day Classics: 2014 & 2016

This flight pairs two more recent releases, both superb. The 2014 emerges from a dark-horse vintage. It has always been exceptional, as it is once again today. Massolino fans know how outstanding the 2016 is.

Dessert

Chef’s Selection of Cheeses

Vigna Rionda Icons: 2010 & 1996

Our last pairing showcases two truly iconic vintages. The 2010 remains a powerhouse. I have a soft spot for the 1996, as it is the first vintage I bought on release. Several cases. You could do that back then. Tasting it today brings back so many memories. It’s clearly a Barolo from another era. The wines have become more finessed since then, but the 1996 is super instructive to taste.

Friday is a big day at La Festa del Barolo, with our BYOB Gala & Charity Dinner just a few hours later. I must admit, I could have easily spent a few more hours with these wines. That is the joy of Barolo, especially at this exceptionally high level.

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