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The Yin and the Yang of Western Australia
Australia, featured
, May 2024
Western Australia remains a beacon of hope and value in a world of stratospheric fine wine prices. This report shows that, pound for pound, few regions can match Margaret River for finely crafted Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. My first coverage of the emerging regions of Great Southern and Pemberton also showcases wines that are surprising for their subtlety and diversity.
Cellar Favorite: 1994 Penfolds Grange and 1975 Bin 95 Grange Hermitage
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia
, May 2024
During my time in Bordeaux tasting barrel samples, I spend most evenings essentially harvesting tasting notes for my annual “Centuries Of…” article that will appear in due course. Ironically, perhaps the best bottle of wine with a vintage ending in four was not from either the Left or Right Bank but from Australia.
Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic
Australia, featured
, Mar 2024
In south-eastern Victoria, the regions of Yarra Valley and Gippsland are leaders in the emerging wave of modern Australian wines thanks to a mix of cool climates and cutting-edge winemaking. This report showcases how these diverse terroirs, coupled with recent mild vintages, have delivered refined Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and even Nebbiolo that challenge traditional perceptions of Australian wine styles and quality.
Flirting with Perfection - Giaconda Chardonnay 2011-2021
Verticals & Retrospectives, Australia, featured, Argentina featured
, Jan 2024
There are more famous Chardonnays in Australia, but none are more keenly collected or tightly held than Rick Kinzbrunner’s enigmatic Giaconda. Originally conceived in California, Giaconda not only put the small outpost of Beechworth in Victoria on the international map, it also helped an entire nation to find its Chardonnay mojo. A rare chance to taste the last decade of vintages exceeded expectations and showcased a world-class wine that can compete with the very best.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia
, Nov 2023
There was a time a few years ago when I drank quite a number of mature Australian wines. Sadly, these have become much harder to find, especially since I have not visited Australia for over a decade. Therefore, it was a joy to drink a 52-year-old bottle from Henschke on a recent trip to the Far East.
Killer Cabernet from Coonawarra and Friends
Australia, featured
, Oct 2023
There is a widespread perception that Shiraz is far and away South Australia’s leading red grape variety. Yet scratch a little deeper, and the credentials of Cabernet Sauvignon loom large, from bold Barossan and Clare Valley styles through to more elegant and nuanced wines. This article explores the current state of South Australian Cabernet Sauvignon and blends from a range of regions while uncovering the breathtaking quality and value to be found in Coonawarra’s 2021 vintage.
Eruptions on the Mornington Peninsula
Australia, featured
, Sep 2023
Thanks to the never-ending march of international wine prices, “bargain” is a word seldom used to describe quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. However, hidden south of Melbourne, in Victoria, is a post-stamp-sized oasis where unicorns can still be uncovered. Forget what you think you know about Australian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The best wines from one of Australia’s leading regions of these varieties are also truly world-class.
Penfolds Collection 2023
Australia, featured
, Jul 2023
It’s easy to judge a book by its cover. There is little doubt that the headline act - the 2019 Grange and Shiraz wines in general - will receive the most attention in this range of new releases from Penfolds. But that would be a mistake in 2023 where there is plenty more worth exploring. The 2021 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon shines brightly in lockstep with the 2023 Eden Valley Riesling.
Changing Gears in Barossa
Australia, featured
, Jun 2023
Think you know Barossa? Think again. Australia’s most famous wine region is re-inventing itself while honoring its terroirs and traditions. It’s thrown off the sometimes-heavy-handed use of oak and heady levels of ripeness in a quest to craft stylish wines that prize nuance and refinement in addition to classic generosity of fruit.
Cellar Favorite: 1998 Wendouree Cabernet Sauvignon
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, Australia
, May 2023
If there is one Australian producer that sends a tingle down my spine more than any other, it is surely Wendouree. There…I just shuddered typing the name. Regrettably, my encounters are infrequent, yet bottles seem to have that ineffable je ne sais quoi whenever they do appear.